A Five Minute Roof Check Any Homeowner Can Do
You can assess most of a roof from the pavement and an upstairs window, and it takes about five minutes. Nine things are worth looking at, in a particular order, and none of them requires a ladder. Doing this twice a year finds almost everything while it is still cheap to fix.
Key takeaways
- Stand back first. Most roof faults are visible from across the road and invisible from directly beneath.
- Look for breaks in a repeating pattern, because a roof is a regular surface and the eye finds irregularity easily.
- Your phone's zoom is the only tool needed, and photographs let you compare year on year.
- The ground and the gutters hold evidence of what is happening above them.
- An upstairs window gives you the view of bay and extension roofs that nothing else does.
Where to stand, which decides what you see
The single most common mistake is looking up from the base of the wall, which foreshortens the roof into a thin strip and hides almost everything on it. Cross the road, go to the far end of the garden, or stand at a neighbour's gate. From thirty or forty feet back you can see the whole plane of the roof, the line of the ridge against the sky, and the relationship between the courses. Do it from at least two positions, ideally at an angle from each end rather than square on, because a slipped tile that is invisible from one angle stands out clearly from another. Bright but overcast conditions are better than strong sun, which throws shadows that hide detail and creates glare on wet surfaces.
One: the ridge line against the sky
Start at the top and use the sky as your reference, because a straight edge against a plain background shows any deviation immediately. A sound ridge is a continuous even line with each tile sitting at the same height as its neighbours. You are looking for gaps between ridge tiles, a tile sitting proud or twisted, daylight visible underneath one, and any section where the mortar has clearly gone. A dip or a sag in the line itself is a structural observation rather than a covering one, and worth noting separately. The ridge is where wind pressure is greatest and where mortar has usually been in place longest, so it earns its place as the first thing you check.
Two: the gable edges
Move down each sloping edge of the roof where it meets the top of the end wall. On an older property this is a mortar strip called the verge, and on a newer one it may be a plastic or metal trim. Either way you are looking for continuity: a mortar line with pieces missing, an open gap where you can see the edge of a tile or daylight, a trim that has lifted or lost a cap, or an end tile that has crept outward from its course. The verge is second only to the ridge for wind exposure, and it is doing a restraining job as well as a weatherproofing one, so gaps here matter more than gaps of the same size elsewhere.
Three: the field of the roof
Now look across the open slopes, and look for pattern rather than for damage. A roof is a repeating grid, so anything wrong reads as a break in that regularity: a dark rectangle where a tile has gone, a tile sitting at a slight angle, a course line that waves rather than running straight, or a patch of different colour where a previous repair used a mismatched unit. Note whether any problems you find are clustered in one area, which suggests damage or a local fault, or scattered across the whole slope, which suggests the fixings are failing generally. That distinction shapes the entire conversation you will have with a roofer.
Four: the chimney
If there is a stack, give it its own look, because it is the most exposed masonry on the building and it causes a disproportionate share of interior damp. Zoom in and check whether the pots are upright and intact, whether the mortar bed they sit in has split, whether the brickwork shows open joints or crumbling faces, and whether anything is growing on it. Then look at where the stack meets the roof: you want to see metal flashing following the brick courses, not a grey wedge of cement. Plants on a stack are worth taking seriously, since they only establish where there is enough held moisture to support them.
Five: valleys and junctions
Wherever two roof slopes meet at an internal angle, or where a roof meets a wall, water is being concentrated and the roof is relying on lead or a formed channel. Look for debris, moss or leaves collecting in a valley, for a lead surface that looks buckled or split, and at abutments for flashing that has lifted away from the wall. On a house with a rear addition or an extension, this is where the difficult details are, and it is where a persistent leak usually originates. If you cannot see a junction from the ground, note that as something to ask about rather than assuming it is fine.
Six: the gutter line
Sight along the gutter run rather than looking at it head on, using the eaves line above as your straight reference. You want a consistent line with a slight even fall towards the downpipe. Look for a dip in the middle, a section that has rotated so the front lip sits at the wrong angle, plants growing out of it, and any gap where a joint has separated. Then look at the boards behind and below it: peeling paint, dark staining or a wavy line in the timber all suggest water has been getting where it should not. Rainwater goods are the cheapest part of the system to maintain and the most consequential to neglect.
Seven: the walls beneath
The walls keep a record of what the roof and gutters have been doing. Look for a green algae stripe running vertically, which marks a habitual escape point above it. Look for a broad dark stain, which marks repeated soaking. Look for brick faces that have flaked or crumbled, and mortar joints that have eroded back, both of which indicate saturation followed by frost. Follow any mark upward with your eye and you will usually arrive at the fault that caused it. This is the step people skip and it is often the most informative, because a stain is a permanent record of an intermittent event.
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Eight: the ground and the gutters
Look down as well as up. Fragments of mortar on a path or in a border almost always come from a ridge, verge or chimney, and their presence tells you deterioration is active rather than historic. Pieces of tile or slate mean something has broken up above. Grit accumulating below a downpipe means an ageing concrete tile roof is shedding its surface. Moss on the ground below a valley suggests the valley is holding it. Then check where each downpipe ends: it should discharge into a gully, not onto the ground or against the wall, and the gully should be clear enough to take it.
Nine: the view from upstairs
Finish inside, at an upstairs window, because that is the only free view of the surfaces nobody ever sees: the roof over a bay, over a porch, over a single storey extension, and any flat area at the back. These are the most neglected roofs on any house and they sit directly above habitable rooms. Note water lying on the surface, or a dried mark showing where it lies, any build up gathered against the house wall, a covering showing splits or bubbles, and metal at the back edge that is no longer tight to the brickwork. Two minutes here regularly finds more than everything else on this list combined.
The loft, if you want ten minutes rather than five
If the hatch is easy to reach, add one more step, on a bright day with the loft light off and your eyes given a minute to adjust. From the hatch or from boarded flooring, look for daylight through the slope rather than along the eaves, for dark run marks on the timbers, for damp or discoloured insulation, and for the state of the underlay above you. Do not walk out across the joists. This single look tells you things no external inspection can: whether there is a secondary barrier, whether water has been arriving, and whether the timber is dry.
Photograph everything, and keep it
Take the same set of photographs each time, from the same standing positions, and keep them in a dated folder. The value is not in any single image but in the comparison: a stain that is the same size next spring is a historic mark, while one that has grown is an active leak, and there is no other way to know which you have. That record also shortens every future conversation with a roofer, supports any insurance claim, and answers the questions a surveyor asks when the house is sold. It costs nothing and takes seconds, and almost nobody does it.
When to do it, and what to do with what you find
Twice a year suits most houses: once in early autumn so anything found can be fixed before the weather, and once in spring so you can see what winter did. Add a look after any significant storm. As for what you find, sort it into three piles. Anything loose that could fall on a person or a path is urgent regardless of leaks. Anything letting water in needs dealing with before the next wet season. Anything cosmetic or unchanged can go on a list for whenever access is next arranged. That triage is the whole point of looking: not to alarm yourself, but to know which of the three you are actually dealing with.
What you cannot assess from the ground
It is worth being clear about the limits of this exercise, because a check that overstates its own reach is worse than none. From outside you cannot see the underlay, which is the component that decides how long you have once anything comes off. You cannot see the battens or the fixings, so you cannot tell whether tiles are secured or simply resting. You cannot assess the timber, or see the top surface of a valley, or look inside a concealed gutter behind a parapet. What the ground level check does is tell you whether something needs a proper look, which is exactly what it should be used for, rather than providing the reassurance that nothing does.
Doing it on a house you are about to buy
The same fifteen minutes is worth considerably more before an offer than after one. A survey will note the roof's apparent condition and recommend further investigation if anything concerns the surveyor, which is prudent and rarely specific about cost. Walking the outside yourself, comparing the roof against the neighbours, and looking in the loft if access allows will tell you whether you are buying a roof with decades left or one that will need attention within a few years. That is a difference measured in thousands, and it is available for the price of paying attention during a viewing.
Building a picture over years rather than moments
The real value of this routine is cumulative. Any single inspection tells you what a roof looks like today, which is of limited use without a reference point. Five years of the same photographs from the same positions tells you the rate at which things are changing, which is what actually determines when work is needed and how urgently. A stain that is identical across four springs is settled. A verge that has lost a little more mortar each year is on a trajectory with a predictable end. Owners who keep that record make decisions from evidence, and everyone else makes them from whichever roofer happened to look last. It is also the only way to answer, with any confidence, the question every homeowner eventually asks about a roof: is this getting worse, or has it always looked like that. Memory is unreliable across a decade, and a folder of dated images is not. There is one more argument for the habit, which is that it makes you notice. Most roof problems are visible for a long time before anybody looks at them, and the reason they go unreported is not that they are subtle but that nobody was in the habit of looking up. Ten minutes twice a year changes that more effectively than any amount of technical knowledge about roofs, because the limiting factor is attention rather than expertise. Nobody needs to know what a verge is called to notice that a line which used to be continuous now has a gap in it, and noticing is very nearly the entire job. Everything after that is a matter of describing what you saw to somebody who can tell you what it means, and a photograph does most of that describing for you.
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About the author
David Boardman founded Boardman Roofing in 2018. Dave has 25 years on the tools. Read 150+ Google reviews or call 07879 736629.
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150+ Google reviews. Dave has 25 years on the tools.
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